Restaurant Review: Eastside Cafe

By Spike Gillespie

December 07, 2009 at 3:30 PM

An Austin favorite for over twenty years, the Eastside Cafe opened long before the recent spate of nearby trendy eateries. Converted from a 1920's house, the restaurant finds itself situated in what now counts as one of Austin's "It" neighborhoods — not the case until recently. Early on, business ranked as hit-or-miss at best. Before long, word-of-mouth changed all that. Now, making reservations is highly recommended as the restaurant remains consistently busy, even early in the week.

Following green principles from the get go, owners Elaine Martin and Dorsey Barger still keep the organic garden out back that they inherited from the previous owner back in the day. The backyard yields an abundance of herbs and veggies, which, along with conventional ingredients, find their way into many dishes. Plus, strolling through all that lush greenery on the way in and out adds a special touch to the dining experience.

An ample selection of daily and nightly specials plus longtime menu favorites promise customers the comfort of old standards and the excitement of new offerings on a regular basis. Vegan and gluten-free choices offer diners with dietary restrictions genuinely good options. Eastside serves as beloved "regular haunt" for folks who started eating here decades ago. The cafe also acts as a perfect "special occasion" place for those seeking a truly intimate, guaranteed flawless dining experience. I recently stopped by for a complimentary tasting. My recommendations appear below.

On the Menu

Take Out and Gift Shop

Pitchforks & Tablespoons

As Eastside's success rightfully grew, it expanded, adding an extra dining room out back and, in the side yard, Pitchforks & Tablespoons, a combination gift shop and takeout place. Among the many wonderful gifts that fill the tiny store, find collected favorite recipes as well as retired recipes from "the old days." Ordering to go when the weather cooperates offers the option of eating out in the gorgeous garden.

Appetizer

Baked Brie With Apple Chutney

I count Eastside's baked brie cheese appetizer as the epitome of comfort food. Make that fancy comfort food. A texture/flavor/temperature sensation, this dish mixes warm, soft, melty brie, the light crunch of toasted, homemade yeast rolls, the cold contrast of sweet and raisin-y apple chutney, and the crisp accent of almonds and pecans.

Appetizer

Tomato Tarragon Soup

"Tomato soup" calls to mind a vision of straightforward cuisine, reliable but not exciting. But wait — what's this? Eastside's variation of the classic pulls the tarragon card to great effect. At once smooth and chunky, and subtle but with that sexy hint of the French "dragon herb," this soup stands up on its own, enough so that a bowlful makes a nice entree. We stuck with the smaller serving just to save room for everything else and wound up duking it out over the final bite — divine to the last drop. Always the case with Eastside's rotating soups du jour.

Entree

Salmon Veracruzano

In addition to its well-rounded regular menu, Eastside features blackboard specials at both lunch and dinner. The Salmon Veracruzano consists of grilled salmon topped with a sauce of tomato, olives, onions, garlic, and just a touch of jalapeno that provides a light kiss of heat. Entrees come with two sides, which range from fresh, firm broccoli heads to the most outstanding acorn squash with soy ginger sauce.

Entree

Angel Hair Pasta Blue Plate Special

In addition to Grilled Sirloin Meatloaf, Two-Day Chili, and Panko and Pecan Encrusted Chicken, which appear on the regular menu, the daily blackboard offerings always include an additional Blue Plate Special. We had the Angel Hair Pasta With Pomodoro Sauce and Homemade Sausage Meatballs with the field greens salad included. The sauce had a nice little kick to it, and the meatballs induced fits of faux-Italian dialogue. The broccoli we ordered as an extra side because Eastside knows from broccoli preparation and this veggie was mighty fine.

Dessert

Apricot Crostatta

One problem plagues all of Eastside Cafe's desserts — the gorgeous presentation. You sit there, ready to plow into the sweet stuff, yet all that beauty demands pause for admiration. We had the Apricot Crostatta, a crumb nut cake with an apricot-almond custard filling, and beat back temptation beckoning us to lick the plate. Other favorites from past visits include the Chocolate Almond Torte and Bootsie's Buttermilk Pie.

Wine

LaCruz de Comal, Cohete Rojo 2005

Eastside Cafe's wine list reflects a love for off-the-beaten-path options. Among the selections, a number of Texas Hill Country wines appear. Napa Valley need not sweat (yet) over the Lone Star State's burgeoning competition, but some local vineyards do stand out. The LaCruz de Comal Winery ranks as one of the best in Texas, and the Coheto Rojo 2005 comes highly recommended.